Blog
2010-02-06 20:57:35
Ice courses in excellent conditions
We have had a few fantastic days of ice climbing together with our clients Carina from Sweden and Greg from Australia. On the first day we practiced climbing techniques at Krokan, and this went so well that we finished the day by climbing Vemorkbrufoss East, a 70 meter long classic at Vemork.
Today we got to practice multi-pitch climbing on Tjønstadbergfossen, in perfect conditions.
Carina and Greg have their last course day tomorrow, together with three other clients that are participating on a customized course program.
Carina and Greg on the last belay of Tjønstadbergfossen
Ice climbing close to Vemork
We have had a few fantastic days of ice climbing together with our clients Carina from Sweden and Greg from Australia. On the first day we practiced climbing techniques at Krokan, and this went so well that we finished the day by climbing Vemorkbrufoss East, a 70 meter long classic at Vemork.
Today we got to practice multi-pitch climbing on Tjønstadbergfossen, in perfect conditions.
Carina and Greg have their last course day tomorrow, together with three other clients that are participating on a customized course program.
Carina and Greg on the last belay of Tjønstadbergfossen
Ice climbing close to Vemork
2010-02-05 01:11:42
Instruction video - lower and belay
This is a neat technique for lowering and belaying from top of a route, using a self locking device such as the Petzl Reverso 3. With this technique you can lower and belay directly from the anchor, without having to take the climber out of the belay device.
Lowering
Clip the Reverso 3 to the anchor's focal point, in standard mode with a screwgate, using a long sling (depending on your set up). Make sure the Reverso 3 is already prepared with a screw gate in the carabiner hole for reverso mode. Redirect the inactive end of the rope to the belay (does not have to be the focal point). This way you can comfortably belay from below the anchor.
Belaying
When the person you have lowered off is ready to climb, clip the screw gate in the reverso mode carabiner hole to the focal point sling, BEFORE you unclip the standard mode screw gate from the focal point. This way, the climber is on belay during the whole process of switching over from standard to reverso mode. Finally, remove the inactive rope from the redirect.
Check out this short clip for a graphical walk through.
This is a neat technique for lowering and belaying from top of a route, using a self locking device such as the Petzl Reverso 3. With this technique you can lower and belay directly from the anchor, without having to take the climber out of the belay device.
Lowering
Clip the Reverso 3 to the anchor's focal point, in standard mode with a screwgate, using a long sling (depending on your set up). Make sure the Reverso 3 is already prepared with a screw gate in the carabiner hole for reverso mode. Redirect the inactive end of the rope to the belay (does not have to be the focal point). This way you can comfortably belay from below the anchor.
Belaying
When the person you have lowered off is ready to climb, clip the screw gate in the reverso mode carabiner hole to the focal point sling, BEFORE you unclip the standard mode screw gate from the focal point. This way, the climber is on belay during the whole process of switching over from standard to reverso mode. Finally, remove the inactive rope from the redirect.
Check out this short clip for a graphical walk through.
2010-01-28 13:58:01
First day climbing in sunshine!
Rjukan is not known for being the most sunny place in Norway, which is one of the major reasons to why we have one o
f the longest ice seasons in the world here. From end of January it is possible to climb in the sun though, on south facing routes, such as Tjønstadbergfossen. It is still only the top of the this route that get sun for a few hours in mid day, but for each day now, the sun is getting lower and lower in the hillside.
Yesterday we guided two clients from Denmark up Tjønstadbergfossen. On the last belay the fog over the valley disappeared and we had a fantastic sunny last pitch. We captured the last meters of this pitch on video.
The top of the last pitch onTjønstadbergfossen
Enjoying the sun at the top of Tjønstadbergfossen
Rjukan is not known for being the most sunny place in Norway, which is one of the major reasons to why we have one o
f the longest ice seasons in the world here. From end of January it is possible to climb in the sun though, on south facing routes, such as Tjønstadbergfossen. It is still only the top of the this route that get sun for a few hours in mid day, but for each day now, the sun is getting lower and lower in the hillside.Yesterday we guided two clients from Denmark up Tjønstadbergfossen. On the last belay the fog over the valley disappeared and we had a fantastic sunny last pitch. We captured the last meters of this pitch on video.
The top of the last pitch onTjønstadbergfossen
Enjoying the sun at the top of Tjønstadbergfossen
2010-01-26 01:51:10
Instruction video - technique for steep ice
Our courses in ice climbing put a lot of focus on techniques, especially for steep ice. With an efficient technique even the steepest pillar can be climbed with relatively little strength. Balance and effectivness in movements are importent variables if you want to become a skilled ice climber.
In this instructional video we demonstrate the sk. "Monkey Hang" technique, which we also teach in our training program for ice climbing.
Our courses in ice climbing put a lot of focus on techniques, especially for steep ice. With an efficient technique even the steepest pillar can be climbed with relatively little strength. Balance and effectivness in movements are importent variables if you want to become a skilled ice climber.
In this instructional video we demonstrate the sk. "Monkey Hang" technique, which we also teach in our training program for ice climbing.
2010-01-21 23:55:36
Instruction video - belays
This instruction video demonstrates a safe and efficient way of rigging belays on ice. A good system for belays is important to save time on long routes, which also means better safety.
This instruction video demonstrates a safe and efficient way of rigging belays on ice. A good system for belays is important to save time on long routes, which also means better safety.
